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Atlas Mountains chic hotel - Domaine Malika

domaine de malika main photo

A boutique hotel at the foot of the Atlas Mountains in Morocco is a rare sight. Except for Richard Branson's Kasbah Tamadot there were no choices of staying in the area other than your typical wood- bean country club. And if you are on a private tour of Morocco, you should at least spend a night here, at the heart of the Berber country. When I first discovered Domaine Malika’s website some five years ago, there was something hip and funky about this guest house. No wood beaned ceilings, stuffed animals or wool sofas like most of the guest houses had adopted in the area. I immediately felt the urge to go and visit. And so I did, a few weeks later. And that’s how I met Paul, the host, a young French man who had recently arrived in Morocco and was looking to open a guest house in Marrakech. After a few mishaps, he managed to secure a villa owned by a well-heeled Casaoui and turn it into a 7- suites Atlas Mountains guest house. His enthusiasm and warmth were contagious but I do remember being a little skeptical about him creating something different in the area. And how would a French man in his early thirties cope with living in the Moroccan countryside ?

domaine de malika double room

We kept in touch, seeing each other as much as our busy lives would allow us to. With time it became obvious that not only he knew what he was doing and became a success story but that he was here to stay. In a country like Morocco, quality and consistency don’t often go hand in hand when it comes to guest houses. Not with Domaine Malika though. Even if you wouldn’t care about them securing TA first spot year after year, Domaine Malika only became better with time. With the years, they added a spa, a boutique, they expanded their garden and gave their cuisine a French twist. Rooms are spacious and the views are bewildering even with the most basic of them. Three of the rooms have their own private access to the roof terrace where you are greeted by sun beds and breath taking views on the snow covered peaks of the Atlas Mountains. The 50’s inspired salon accommodates leather armchairs, society games, three fire places and a well packed library – even Nietzsche and Chekov are on hand if you can be bothered. Or if the weather is rainy, which it almost never is...

lounge by evening at domaine de malika

The pool is just what you need after a long summer day or a trek in the surrounding Atlas Mountains and the wine garden accommodates late dinners during those hot summer nights. Like the one I had last night, while the hotel was lantern lit, the cicadas roared and frogs came out, croaking and lolloping by the pool. The place felt chic but not groundbreaking. But then again,  if you wanted a blast, a buzz, a bling, you’d be in Marrakech having cocktails at Djelabar. Here is about breathing in the Atlas Mountains night, enjoying a glass of red on the roof terrace or walking in the gardens, among apples, prunes, figs and oranges by the moonlight. One is such at ease here, it almost feels a sacrilege to only spend one night. Just the perfect spot for someone wanting to relax at the end of a  4x4 tour of Morocco coming from the desert south of the Atlas Mountains. Or someone that wants to escape the Riads of Marrakech. And Paul is as passionate and welcoming as the first time I met him. No wonder he was recently described as ‘ebullient and deeply hospitable’ by Travel and Leisure magazine no less. He kindly agreed to share the secrets behind his innate hospitality.

room terrace at domaine de malika

Sun Trails: I remember your beginnings here in Ouirgane and how your Atlas Mountains hotel was the exception to the rule in the region. We’ve known each other for over 5 years now. Was it hard for you to start this project here in the countryside? Why so far from Marrakech? Young, single, do you not miss the big city?

Paul Goetz: It is true that this was no sure bet since we were not 100% sure that our house would find its target among travelers wishing to discover the Atlas Mountains. The distance that separates us from Marrakech proved to be ideal. We are only one hour's drive from the Red City. This is sufficiently far away to offer our guests a complete change of scenery and a real alternative to the city, yet without forcing them to spend too much time driving.  Living in the heart of the valley is an everyday joy because the conditions here are ideal: tranquility, nature, authentic Berber hospitality.

domaine de malika orchard

ST: The decoration of the house is not your typical ‘mountain lodge’ with wooden beams, wool sofas, etc. What is it? Do your guests love it? Are they surprised or do they know what to expect at the time of arrival?

PG: Domaine Malika is a designer house setting itself apart with its Art Deco/ Art Nouveau décor, offering a striking yet unostentatious contrast with its surrounding environment. The spacious rooms, with their pristine white walls and the large windows create a bright atmosphere and allow guests to enjoy the nature that surrounds the house. Most of the time, people who decide to reside here have fallen for the style of the house, having discovered through the photos or video available on our web site the true reflection of the identity of Domaine de Malika.
Hence, before arriving physically at the location, they are already under the spell of the domain.

domaine de malika room

ST: Kasbah Tamadot (belonging to Richard Branson) is a few kilometers away. He (Richard Branson) is not often present, but do you not feel some sort of pressure having such a famous neighbor?

PG: On the contrary, I believe that such a beautiful hotel can only push all guest houses in the region to become more competitive. Kasbah Tamadot is an example of good taste, quality of service and excellence. We have a great relationship with their team and our guests are always delighted to go and have lunch at Kasbah Tamadot

domaine de malika terrace

ST: Your guest house is situated on one of the most picturesque routes in Morocco, but most visitors are not aware of it. Starting in Marrakech, through beautiful valleys before passing by the village of Tinmel and its 12th century mosque. It then rises to cross Tizi n Test pass at 2000 meters above sea level from where it descends into the ‘great south’, Taroudant and the Sahara desert. Are many of your guests coming from the desert or Taroudant as part of a tour of Morocco or are they rather people who just want to spend a few days outside Marrakech?

PG: Well, we kind of have both scenarios. Although located only an hour from Marrakech, Ouirgane Valley is a popular stop for travelers during their stay over this majestic pass that connects the north and south.
We also have many guests who combine city, sea and mountains in the course of a week's Morocco tour. Located 7 km from the National Park of Toubkal, Ouirgane is right in the heart of the High Atlas. This privileged location makes it a prime destination.

pool at domain de malika

ST: What is there to do and see if we wanted to stay more than one night?

PG: There is plenty of choice in terms of leisure of activities that our valley offers. In general, our guests make the right choice when deciding to stay 3-4 days with us. The main activities have to see with nature and culture. Our mountains are a great opportunity to discover the Berber culture through trekking in the Atlas Mountains by foot or mule or horse riding. Travelers can sample real immersion into local culture during a lunch or through learning the secrets of local cuisine by following one of our Moroccan cooking classes. But people are above all here to rest, recharge their batteries, so they are particularly fond of our hammam and the spa treatments dispensed by Hanane, our masseuse.

view on the atlas mountains from domaine de malika

ST: What is the typical profile of your guests? What makes Domaine de Malika unique ?

PG: Our clients are mostly couples from the United Kingdom, in search of tranquility and fresh air. Domaine de Malika is for them the icing on the cake as they can immerse themselves in the heart of Berber country without losing on the comfort.

ST: Knowing that you have 7 rooms and average rates of 160 euros per night, was it difficult to train staff to be able to deliver the service expected at this level, knowing that most of them are just locals from the nearby village?

PG: Our team is by far our biggest asset. Without their love of what they are doing and their innate sense of hospitality, the soul of Domaine Malika would not be what it is. We started from scratch with them and we built everything together. Mutual respect is the foundation of our relationship. This enabled us over the years to build a strong relationship and to cultivate in each pleasure of a job well done. Guests often tell us they can feel this positive atmosphere throughout the house and that it greatly contributes to their well being during their stay at Domaine Malika.

pool and sun beds at domaine de malika

ST: I had the pleasure of trying your home made couscous the other night, followed by a rather French cake - a nice surprise indeed. Do you often blend these two cuisines ? Can you give some examples of unusual dishes made at Domaine de Malika ?

PG: Agnes, Fouzia and Hafida are behind this fine reputation surrounding our restaurant. During a trip to Morocco, people want to also travel through the local cuisine and thus discover the country in a different way. However, way too often the guest houses and local restaurants offer them the same typical and ubiquitous dishes. We wanted to go further by creating an unpretentious yet rich culinary identity and merging our French roots and Moroccan culinary traditions. Some examples are: ‘beet soup with apples and spices’, ‘fresh goat Aumonières with dates’, ‘fillet of sea bream in foil with orange and anise seeds’, ‘quail stuffed with couscous and onions’, ‘strawberry mousse with fresh coriander’. People appreciate our simple and crafted cuisine made with love and fresh products coming largely from our garden and the orchard.

room detail at domaine de malika

ST: I walked in your garden and I was surprised to see every imaginable fruit: apples, quinces, figs, plums, grapes, oranges, lemons. Is there a fruit you do not grow? What becomes of the harvest?

PG: We are far from having all the fruits and vegetables we’d like but we are fortunate to have a nice variety! Just like in the old times, we prepare our dishes accordingly. We also fill our pastries with them and include them in our jams for breakfast. Our customers enjoy visiting the gardens and see that all this can be found in their dish when they are having dinner.

ST: The surrounding music blends very well into the atmosphere of the house and is present in the restaurant, the garden or the living room. You prefer jazz, I noticed. In fact, I would not have been able to hear more jazz these two days if I attended a jazz festival. I must have heard three different versions of ‘Summertime’ only over dinner. Where did you find the soundtrack and why this choice?

PG: We are first and foremost fans of this music that fortunately fits perfectly with the style of the house and helps create that cozy atmosphere we wanted to wrap our guests in.

reception at domaine de malika

ST: Did you contribute in any way to the local community? I remember you telling me about a Moroccan actress who helped build a bridge across the river for the children to be able to attend school.

PG: This project is for us a memory that will stay with us for a long time. Initially, we were not responsible for the initiative of this great project launched by Nadia , one of our regular guests and friends, but we were fortunate to be able to make a small contribution. Contributing to the well-being of the inhabitants of the valley in which we operate is a true source of satisfaction. By motivating a handful of people around her, she managed to conclude the construction of the bridge, allowing people in general, but in particular little children, to cross the river during rains and avoid several hours of walking, which deprived them too often of attending school.
Our clients often cross this bridge without always knowing the story behind it.

domaine de malika suite

ST: I've known you for almost 5 years, but I noticed that your passion has remained intact. How do you manage? Do you see yourself here in 5 years from now ?

PG: What will our lives become in 5 years from now, Cristian ?! I have trouble answering you this, but what is certain today is that I love this country that has given me so many opportunities. I love the Moroccans who welcomed me with generosity and, above all, I love my job that allows me to share all this with people from around the world.

Domaine de Malika is currently offered on the Privilege level of our Caravans Dust tour and some other bespoke tailor made tours. 

© Sun Trails. All rights reserved. No part of this interview may be reproduced, distributed, or transmitted in any form, including photocopying, recording, or other electronic or mechanical methods, without the prior written permission of the publisher.

 

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Picnic in the Atlas

picnic in the atlas moutains

A DAY OUT PICNICKING IN THE ATLAS MOUNTAINS (or how you don't need a grill when having a barbecue)  

 

yep, it's going up ! terrace view kasbah toubkal

Driving: 1 hour and a half each way.

Trekking: 1 hour.

Day dreaming: most of the day.

INSTRUCTIONS FOR USE:

1. Wake up relatively early errr... 10 AM- ish. Bring your loved one breakfast in bed. While she (he)

the feast is enjoying that, prepare a salad, place it in a plastic bowl and seal it well. Don't forget the vinaigrette - pack that separetely. Other items: forks, knife, tissues, loose aluminium foil, blanket. 

2. Head south of Marrakech and drive past Tahnaoute to stop in Asni, a 40 minutes drive. Smile when passing the police road check. Buy lamb chops at the local butcher and ask him to have them grilled for you next door. 

berber village Pack them in the aluminium foil. Ask the butcher for a pinch of cumin - goes quite well sprinkled over the ribbs. Buy bottled water - Sidi Ali is best and freshly baked bread- it is sold by the road. 

3. At the road fork after Asni, take left and drive past Richard Branson's past kasbah tamadot Kasbah Tamadot to then reach Imlil 30 minutes later. Park the car and head towards Kasbah Toubkal, a 15 minutes walk. Step through the gate at the Kasbah and enjoy the oh- my - God view from the roof terrace. Have mint tea and dates - both with scientifically proven benefits for your glutes.

4. Leave Kasbah Toubkal and follow the water source until reaching the small bridge, 10 minutes later. Follow the path up by the river course. At some point brave your way down to the right until reaching the riverside. 

by the river  Spread out the blanket, place the salad bowl under a rock in the fresh water. Go for a dip in the river, pick some berries or just catch your breath.

5. Take out the ribbs, sprinkle them with cumin. Salad should be cool by
now, just mix in the vinaigrette. Have a hearty lunch and listen to the butterflies.

6. Live happily ever after.

If you don't feel like organizing it yourself let Sun Trails take care of it.

kasbah toubkal view from terrace

  picnic by the river kitens cuddling at kasbah toubkal

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Atlas and the Lake

lalla takerkoust lake

The ideal day trip from Marrakech when spending a few days in the red city, a true immersion into the Berber culture.

Trekking in the Atlas Mountains, lunch at Kasbah Tamadot, tea with a Berber family or 12th century Tinmel Mosque are the highlights of this excursion from Marrakech. 

DETAILED ITINERARY

Leaving Marrakech behind, the day trip follows the tarred road through small villages scattered across the plain. Soon afterwards, you will arrive on the shores of Lalla Takerkoust lake where a small break is recommended to take in the panorama before starting the ascent towards the deserted  Kik Plateau. Time to take out your cameras! Ruins of Kasbahs once property of the local Pacha border the road. The limestone plateau is 1800 meters high and offers spectacular 360 degrees views and, in the spring, a marvellous spread of alpine flowers. From November to May, the surrounding peaks of the Atlas Mountains greet the view. On the other side of the plateau, lies the picturesque village of Moulay Brahim with its shrine where women from all over the area come and light candles, praying for baraka. By the river, camels and restaurants await their clients either for a Berber tagine or a camel ride. Asni is where a very important Berber souk is held on every Saturday and local producers bring fruit, vegetables and livestock to sell.

Further up, the road splits : straight ahead, the charming little village of Ouirgane with its majestic lake, an artificial dam created using dynamite only years ago. Due to the absence of the shores, the lake seems to have suddenly flooded the steep valley, as the branches of the pine trees almost touch the  surface of the water. 

Our excursion from Marrakech follows now one of the most picturesque routes in Morocco, one which is seldom used by intrepid travelers concluding a tour across Morocco coming from Sahara's dunes and Taroudant. Alas, before long, the impressive 12th century mosque of Tinmel, unveils itself in the distance. It feels almost eerie that this same route used by our day trip from Marrakech would be the same used by the Almohad armies to take over Marrakech centuries ago, destined to become the founders of an empire stretching from Western Sahara to nowadays Libya and all the way up to Cordoba and Seville, in Spain. It is a mosque that can also be visited by non muslims and draws inspiration from the Great Mosque of Cordoba with its beautifully decorated archways, sturdy towers and monumental doors. Once the visit concluded, lunch can be had in a charming inn in the area, by the pool.

If you choose to turn left instead of following ahead to visit Ouirgane and Tinmel mosque, our itinerary serpents along Oued Mizzane, in the shade of nut trees and crossing mountain springs, passing by Richard Branson's Kasbah Tamadot, to finally reach Imlil, the most picturesque trailhead in Morocco. On some days, the clouds descend and pass through the valley at eye level, like the ghost of a slow- moving train. In July and August you are guaranteed to find perfectly cool temperatures away from the scorching Marrakech. Martin Scorsese used it to shoot 'Kundun'and for good reason: Imlil will surprise you with the beauty and drama of the surrounding High Atlas and the local waterfalls are the perfect excuse for an enchanting mountain walk. If you want to catch your breath on the way and sip a mint tea or a coffee, there's no better spot than the roof terrace of Kasbah Toubkal . For those of you that want to try some serious Morocco trekking, a 3 hour trek on foot or mules can be arranged on spot or in advance. Lunch can be had at the exceedingly charming Douar Samra ( Moroccan). Lunch at Kasbah Tamadot is also recommended, for a special occasion. The menu is international and lunch needs to be booked in advance.

HOW ABOUT WATERFALLS AT 2500 METERS ALTITUDE ?

For those fit enough and willing to go totally off the beaten track, the more strenuous trek to the Roulidane waterfalls is worth every stretch. Even in October, after the long hot summer, you will spot patches of snow on the plateau dominating the falls. The walk is long and you will need to stop and catch your breath plenty, but you are rewarded with breath- taking views, lost-in-time adobe villages, remote sheep folds and terraced gardens. The few locals you will cross on your way will invite you for tea. Arrive at the base of the waterfalls in the afternoon and have some great shots to then, descend to the village below. Later, have a Berber lunch with a steamy tagine and freshly baked tafernoute bread while overlooking the peaceful valley. On the way back, we can choose to return the same way or draw a loop to join the Asni- Imlil route and be picked up by our driver. Tip: trekking equipment including ski sticks and boots can be rented locally.

On the way back to Marrakech small villages with their mud- brick adobe houses greet your eye sight, stacked into the hillside or lining the water course shaded by the palm grove. The river gives place to the canyons and gorges and the local Berber granary towers over the landscape, a quiet sentinel guarding the silence of the valley. Past Tahnaoute, the tarmac road follows its course among olive or orange orchards and golf courses to reach Marrakech soon after. 

You are free to choose your time of departure. However, in order to make the best out of your day out, we recommend leaving no later than 9 AM. Forecasted return time in Marrakech is 5 PM.

PRICE.............................................................................................. 65 EUROS PER PERSON ( BASED ON 2 PERSONS SHARING THE VEHICLE). DISCOUNTS APPLY FOR 3 OR MORE PERSONS.

The rate includes: private ( sole use) of the modern air conditioned Toyota 4x4 and the English fluent driver- guide, entrance fees to all sites and monuments, refreshing drinks inside the vehicle, pick up and drop off from/ to the hotel/ Riad and transport insurance.

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The Desert and the Lake

camel agafay desert

Our day trip from Marrakech into the nearby desert is ideal for those short on time to get to the Sahara.

Agafay desert, Lalla Takerkoust lake, the Atlas Mountains, Berber villages and hospitality all make up for a great day tour. If you have 3 days or more, you may wish to consider a tour to the Sahara desert

DETAILED ITINERARY

Our day trip out of Marrakech drives us past the airport and before you know it, the route is shaded by lush vegetation, olive and orange orchards past the occasional village. Off the tarmac and onto off road, the scenery is completely different - barren light brown plateaux, a true stone desert. The locals call it Agafay desert:  this might as well be the Sahara as the feeling of solitude and complete isolation is similar. The land seems to stretch out forever as the impression of being completely disconnected from civilization takes shape. For the next couple of hours, we are submerged in this immensity undisturbed by any sign of life. Civilization finds us again under the shape of a few adobe houses, where we can sample a tea with the locals or experience trekking by camel. 

A few hours later, our excursion from Marrakech skirts past swaths of vegetation and not long after, we are back on the tarmac, sidelined by old eucalyptus trees. We arrive on the edge of Lalla Takerkoust lake built as a dam, where Marrakech gets its electricity from. A great spot for lunch or a tea break, with a superb view over the lake and for those looking for a rush of adrenaline, quad biking or jet skiing can be arranged locally. 

After the lake, our itinerary takes us up into the Atlas Mountains. Ruins of Kasbahs once property of the local Pasha border the road. Kik Plateau is 1800 meters high and offers spectacular 360 degrees views and, in the spring, a marvellous spread of alpine flowers. Scattered Berber hamlets greet the view and it feels like you travelled back in time, perhaps to the age of the spaghetti western. The driver can arrange for a visit of a Berber house for you to witness the  day to day life of these mountain people.

On the other side of the plateau, lies the picturesque village of Moulay Brahim with its shrine where women from all over the area come and light candles, praying for the much coveted baraka. By the river, camels and restaurants await their clients either for a Berber tagine or a camel ride. Further on lie the peaceful village of Asni and Kasbah Tamadot, Richard Branson's Morocco's retreat, in the heart of this lush area covered with apple, cherry and plum orchards sending out their harvest into the city. A very important Berber market is held on every Saturday where producers bring fruit, vegetables and livestock to sell. If you are interested in seeing a Berber souk, almost every village has one on a specific day of the week. Lunch at Richard Branson's can also be arranged but it is best accommodated with our Atlas and the Lake day trip, especially when building a serious appetite after some trekking in the High Atlas. 

On our tour back to Marrakech, small villages with their mud- brick adobe houses greet your eye sight, stacked into the hillside or lining the water course shaded by the palm grove. The river gives place to the canyons and gorges and the local Berber granary towers over the landscape, a quiet sentinel guarding the silence of the valley. Past Tahnaoute, the tarmac road follows its course among olive or orange orchards and golf courses to reach Marrakech soon after.

You are free to choose your time of departure. However, in order to make the best out of your day out, we recommend leaving no later than 9 AM. Forecasted return time in Marrakech is 5 PM.

PRICE.............................................................................................. 65 EUROS PER PERSON ( BASED ON 2 PERSONS SHARING THE VEHICLE). DISCOUNTS APPLY FOR 3 OR MORE PERSONS.

The rate includes: private ( sole use) of the modern air conditioned Toyota 4x4 and the English fluent driver- guide, entrance fees to all sites and monuments, refreshing drinks inside the vehicle, pick up and drop off from/ to the hotel/ Riad and transport insurance.

Better still, why not make staying one night in Agafay desert part of a 2- day private 4x4 tour and discover the diverse area just south of Marrakech ? The desert, the High Atlas, the Kik Plateau, the local waterfalls, Lalla Takerkoust lake – so much variety covered in only two days. Perhaps start along the Ourika Valley, hike up into the High Atlas, have lunch with a Berber family. Walk up to and refresh by the local waterfalls, witness how the argan fruit is turned into oil into a local cooperative. Discover the 12th century mosque of Tinmel, have a tea break by the lake, lunch at Richard Branson's High Atlas retreat or trek in the Atlas mountains. And, after all the lushness of the High Atlas, take in a little bit of desert. Arrive in Agafay desert by the afternoon and, after settling in, have the most romantic dinner by candle light under the starriest sky, out in the open. Spend a night inside a private white canvas tent and explore the surroundings next day by foot, camel, horse of mountain bike. In the afternoon get taken back to your riad in Marrakech or the airport. To arrange such a private tour and find out rates and details, send us an enquiry .

 



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Sun Trails

14 Avenue Hassan Seghir

Casablanca 20000

Phone : +212 638 636 719/ +212 666 915 384

Skype: sun_trails_morocco

We are open 7 days a week from 9 AM to 5 PM local Morocco time. For any last minute enquiry feel free to call us on the number(s) listed above.

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Boutique tours of Morocco

What better place than Morocco for a private tailor made tour ? It can be a day trip from Marrakech into the Atlas Mountains. Or a 14 day private luxury Morocco tour. And everything in between. With such a different culture and language, a boutique 4x4 Morocco tour with an English speaking local driver- guide guarantees the best holidays in Morocco. Choose one of the many 4x4 tours from Marrakech or another imperial city and you will discover the off the beaten track Morocco. Much more than excursions from Marrakech or Morocco desert tours, our 4x4 custom tours travel all across Morocco, covering Berber villages, majestic Kasbahs, enchanting palm groves or Touareg desert camps. From Ait Benhaddou to Chefchaouen, from Erg Chebbi to Taroudant and from camel rides in the Sahara to hardcore trekking Morocco can only offer. Browse among our 4x4 boutique tours of Morocco and book your favorite today !