WHAT’S NEW IN MOROCCO WINTER 2025 NEWSLETTER
From our offices in Marrakech, we regularly get on the road and scout Morocco for new locations, experiences and unique accommodations. Our latest scouting covered over 2500 miles ( 4000 km) in November and December 2024. Over 2 weeks we tried and tested new and established riads and lodges, wild camped, danced at Taragalt festival, trekked the Anti Atlas and drove over the dunes of the Sahara. And got some tummy issues. From Tangier to Tafraoute and the dunes of Erg Chigaga to Tiznit, it was diverse, intense and… never boring. As we wrap up 2024, here’s some updates to consider when traveling across Morocco on a private tour. Or just independently.
– Meknes is mostly clogged due to huge public works and it is best avoided by anyone visiting that part of Morocco, at least for the foreseeable future. Restoration works have started last year and are likely to conclude sometimes next year;
– It turns increasingly problematic to visit Volubilis, the best preserved Roman heritage site in Morocco. By our sources, most of the local guides scurry and rush guests through the ruins just to take on the next visitors of the day and thus maximize revenue;
– We visited Chellah in Rabat after the major restoration works conducted between 2021 and 2024. It comes as a pleasant surprise that the staff now speaks English, the site has been tidied, especially the Mauretanian and Roman districts, as well as the café/ restaurant with great view on the bay. Get the audio guide – it certainly made a difference;
– A new boutique hotel between Fes and the Sahara desert ?! Voluntas populi. Our prayers have been answered ! So, we went to test it. It goes by the name of Xaluca Aguelmame and yes, it’s worth the detour. A symphony of cedar wood throughout, heated indoor pool and sublime settings make for a great overnight ( and chilly mountain breeze, in the warm season). And yes, breaking that 7 or 8 hour drive, seals the deal.
– Borj Biramane, our long- time partner has changed management. We overnighted and had dinner on our way from Taragalte festival to Tafraoute. While we still adore the location and setting, we’ll be on standby to see what improvements the new team will bring;
– Speaking of team change, Tigmi Bulbul, our favorite ( and only ) address in the gorges of Amtoudi have also got a new, dynamic team onboard. Melissa, the host and Hicham in the kitchen bode a complete revival of this address that had all going for it: the views, the proportions, the location, but only needed a change of… vibe. When tagined out, there’s nothing like a Belgian roasted chicken with carrot and potato siding;
– The last year’s earthquake and this September’s rainfalls have shifted the landscape in the gorges of Amtoudi. Good news is that the pools were brimming with water in November, when they’re supposed to be at their scantest. Wild gazelles were spotted on sight. Just like those rose dolphins in the Amazon, they cast luck on the fortunate sighter. Ok, I made that last one up.
– In October, United Airlines launched a direct flight from New York to Marrakech, a first by an American airline to Morocco and North Africa. The historic New York-Marrakech route is operated three times a week on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays. It offers an alternative to the regular New York – Casablanca flights offered by Royal Air Maroc and saves visitors 3 hours of highway travel in Morocco;
– Speaking of flights, Ryanair, the low cost European carrier ( yes, the one that practically invented that scary-if-true oxymoron: standing seats) started offering flights inside Morocco, somewhat competing with Air Arabia. Flights from Marrakech to Errachidia ( to name but one route) take around 1 hour. Not bad, considering the drive is around 7 hours. You’d be missing out on the High Atlas, Dades gorges, Todra, Ait Benhaddou and more. But, on the bright side: sitting too much is bad for your health. Or so the doctors say.
– Remember few years ago when we used to say that the Agafay desert can’t possibly get busier than it currently is ? Well, it did. As things stand, it’s turning impossible to find some privacy and revel in that desert ambiance. Unless your thing is selfie-ing the afternoon away by an infinity pool. It feels increasingly more like an attraction park where dust hardly ever settles- busloads of tourists scamper, buggies race and camels clop away.
– Do you happen to be traveling privately in Morocco between Rabat and Fes and you crave a choice dish under the tongue ? Chateau Roslane wine domain might be the place for it. We tried the lamb mechoui and millefeuille pastilla and were seduced. Make sure you arrive with an appetite though. The Relais and Chateaux property also offers accommodation in its gorgeous 12 rooms and suites. The local vineyard wines are served with your meal – whatever happened to those self – driving Teslas ?
– Tangier seems to be on a revival trend. No longer that scruffy background to certain past Hollywood block busters, there’s plenty of new openings in the city. We visited Mimi Calpe and Villa Mabrouka, two of the more recent additions to the city on the coast, but will get back with a full report on the local scene, to include dining, museums and art galleries, among others;
– Police road checks seem to be teeming up everywhere, more than what used to be the case. Not a serious nuisance, but can delay you quite some time if you get pulled over. Keep your Waze open if you rent a car and make sure you respect the legal speed limit. If you do get stopped, remember the golden rule: always smile and avoid any verbal confrontation. Even better: talk soccer.
– What’s new in the desert ? The dunes of Erg Chigaga along with those of Erg Chebbi are seeing more desert camps taking on a more fixed structure with some going as far as having solid walls and cluster together, due to increasingly strong winds and windstorms. Some have even resorted to wood panneling and glass pane windows. Fortunately, with some careful research, you can still spend the night in a true desert camp. DYOR.
– Our favorite Moroccan festival, Taragalte, held at the beginning of November, was a bit of mixed bag. Headliners like Oum or Samba Toure drew some crowds but the actual performances left many to wonder. The frequent sound glitches and large intermissions between acts didn’t help, either. Better luck next year ?
And that wraps up our news bulletin winter 2024/ 2025. Back with some more updates in Spring/ Summer 2025. Hasta la vista, habibi.
